Phuket Vegetarian Festival

But prior to that here are the major events at the Phuket Vegetarian Festival.

Some of the rituals are based around self-mutilation and daring acts of firewalking. A lot of the processions and ceremonies can be quite scary, especially for the young or squeamish. There will be lots of noise, lots of people and people going into trances before undergoing different levels of voluntary mutilation. These days there are medical staff behind the scenes should anyone drop out of trance and need medical help, a luxury not afforded the devotees in the past.

The Vegetarian Festival is becoming a popular tourist attraction but it’s also observed by younger locals and some tourists as well. Observers and participants avoid eating meat, seafood, poultry or dairy products during the period of the festival. The belief is that observers will have better health, purer minds, and gain merits from taking vegetarian foods.

You will see many restaurants with a yellow flag, indicating that they provide pure, vegetarian food. This is your chance to try delicious new food as the streets will be filled with food stalls serving up vegetarian dishes.

The annual festival kicks off with religious rituals that are held at the main Chinese shrines on the island – Seng Ko Teng Thiao. The Lantern Pole is supposed to attract the 36,000 gods of the Chinese pantheon.

All shrines will raise their poles between 15.00 and 17.45, except for Sheng Leng Tong (which holds its ceremony earlier).

The opening night ritual of the Koteng lantern pole raising will be held at the Put Jaw Shrine / Jui Tui Shrine, the ancient Chinese shrine in Old Phuket Town. Apart from Put Jaw Shrine / Jui Tui Shrine, approximately 30 shrines around the island will conduct the annual ceremony including Bang Liao (aka Bang Niew) Shrine, Samkong Shrine, and Kathu Shrine. After the ritual, the Masong (people who invite the spirits of Chinese gods to possess their bodies) will be parading around.

Processions in Phuket Town

The daily processions are something you will unlikely see anywhere else in the world, at least not as intense as the Phuket parades – noise, music, fireworks, smoke, masongs in trances, body piercings and mutilations. The parades are a complete assault on your senses. Whilst there are many local children involved in the event, the western tourist, and especially kids, may find some of the activities quite overwhelming.

Phuket Vegetarian Festival 2024
Schedule: October 2nd - 12th, 2024

The Phuket Vegetarian Festival is a unique and vibrant cultural experience celebrated annually, attracting thousands of visitors seeking to witness its intense and sacred rituals. This year, the festival kicks off on Wednesday, October 2nd, extending through October 12th. Below, you'll find a detailed overview of the events to help you make the most of this remarkable celebration.

Opening Ceremony: October 2nd

The festival begins in the late afternoon of October 2nd, when the Go Teng poles, also known as lantern poles, are raised at all participating Chinese shrines across Phuket. The ceremony symbolizes the Emperor Gods descending along these poles into the shrines at midnight, marking the official start of the festival. This is a deeply spiritual moment, with locals and visitors alike gathering in anticipation. I often attend the ceremony at the Kathu Shrine, which is one of the prominent shrines in the area. Watching the pole raising and participating in the midnight ceremony is both an awe-inspiring and humbling experience, with an atmosphere that is both reverential and slightly eerie. You can see some of my photographs of this beautiful tradition in my post: [Pole Raising and Midnight Ceremony].

After the poles are raised, the night continues with people gathering at the shrines for prayer. Around midnight, the lanterns are hung on the poles, signifying the arrival of the Emperor Gods and the start of the nine-day purification period. There are also firecrackers and fireworks throughout the night, adding to the festive yet sacred mood. My experience at Kathu Shrine ended well after 1 AM, with many worshippers still present, quietly praying and honoring the gods.

October 3rd - A Quiet Start

The first full day of the festival, October 3rd, is relatively quiet in terms of major events. It serves as a day for people to visit the shrines, make offerings, and begin their Jae (เจ) diet – a strict vegan diet that excludes meat, dairy, and even pungent vegetables like garlic and onions. These dishes are prepared in a special way with clean utensils to ensure purity. During this time, the streets of Phuket Town come alive with stalls selling this special festival food, especially around the shrines. For visitors, this is an excellent opportunity to try unique local vegan dishes prepared specifically for the festival. If you're staying near the beaches, it may be a bit harder to find these specialty foods, as most Jae vendors are concentrated in town and around the shrines. However, it’s still worth the trip for the authentic experience.

Street Processions Begin: October 4th - Naka Shrine

The first major street procession will take place on October 4th, originating from the Naka Shrine. This shrine, located near the weekend market just outside Phuket Town, is a relatively recent participant in the festival, having started its processions around ten years ago. These street processions are a key part of the festival, featuring entranced participants known as "Ma Song," who act as mediums for the gods. They are often seen walking with various piercings and engaging in acts of self-mortification as a display of their spiritual devotion and as a way to bring blessings to the community.

The procession from Naka Shrine begins early in the morning, typically around 7 AM. Over the years, this procession has become a favorite for photographers aiming to capture the intensity of the festival, and it tends to get crowded as people gather to watch the spectacle unfold.

October 5th - Sapam Shrine Procession & Evening Ceremonies

On October 5th, the procession from Sapam Shrine will take place. Sapam Shrine is located a few kilometers north of Phuket Town, and the procession route covers approximately 10 km to Sapan Hin. If you wish to witness the piercing rituals before the procession starts, it's best to arrive at the shrine by 6 AM. The early morning hours are filled with devotees preparing themselves, often through elaborate piercings, to serve as mediums for the gods.

Later that evening, another fascinating event occurs at Kathu Village. Starting around 7 PM, the Birth and Death Gods (Lam Tao and Pak Tao) are honored with a noisy and energetic procession throughout the village. This event is one of the more colorful parts of the festival, with firecrackers, drums, and music filling the air as the villagers accompany the gods in a raucous parade. The Jui Tui Shrine in Phuket Town also hosts a similar procession that evening, and it's one of the larger gatherings during the festival, drawing in many participants and spectators.

Sunday, October 6th - Sam Kong Shrine Procession

The main event for October 6th is the street procession from Sam Kong Shrine. This procession is quite notable, starting from the shrine located in the northern part of Phuket Town, not far from the large Tesco Lotus store. The procession route takes participants past Bangkok-Phuket Hospital and continues through the historic parts of old Phuket Town.

For those seeking a raw and powerful experience, the Sam Kong Shrine procession is known for some of the most intense piercing displays, with participants—called Ma Song—showing extreme forms of devotion through face and body piercings that may be challenging to watch but are an integral part of the festival’s spiritual traditions. Being relatively close to my home, I've often witnessed this procession, and it's always fascinating, though undeniably gory at times.

Sam Kong is also a fantastic area for those interested in trying the Jae food that’s central to the Vegetarian Festival. During the procession, the streets are lined with vendors selling all kinds of vegan dishes prepared with great care to meet the festival's strict dietary rules. The food stalls stretch for about half a kilometer, offering a vast array of choices—from spicy curries to sweet desserts. However, finding parking can be quite challenging due to the crowds, so it's best to arrive early to enjoy the offerings and secure a good viewing spot. For early birds, this is definitely an event worth attending.

Monday, October 7th - Tha Ruea Shrine Procession

The procession on October 7th originates from the Tha Ruea Shrine, which is located in the Thalang area, situated centrally on the island. Thalang is historically significant, as it used to be the primary town in Phuket a couple of centuries ago. The area is home to several historical temples and is famous for its connection to the Heroines of Phuket—two sisters who played a vital role in defending Phuket from Burmese invaders in the late 18th century. The Heroines Festival, which celebrates this crucial part of local history, is also held in Thalang each year.

The Tha Ruea Shrine procession is a mix of history and cultural richness, blending the traditional elements of the Vegetarian Festival with the heritage of Thalang. The procession here tends to be smaller compared to those in Phuket Town, but it provides a more intimate and accessible way to witness the rituals without being overwhelmed by the larger crowds that gather at the bigger shrines.

Tuesday, October 8th - Bang Neow Shrine Procession and Firewalking

October 8th is a day filled with events, starting early in the morning and continuing late into the night. The day begins with the street procession from Bang Neow Shrine, one of the largest and most significant shrines participating in the festival. Located in the southern part of Phuket Town along Phuket Road, Bang Neow Shrine draws a substantial crowd every year, making this one of the highlights of the festival.

The procession kicks off at 7 AM, and the streets of Phuket Town will be bustling with participants, spectators, and those hoping to catch a glimpse of the sacred rituals. If you plan to attend, expect very large crowds, as the Bang Neow Shrine procession is one of the key events of the entire festival. I have been to Phuket Town many times for this procession, but the sheer number of attendees has often made it difficult to get close to the temple itself. Still, the energy and atmosphere in town on this day are incredible, with countless Ma Song demonstrating their devotion in dramatic displays.

For those staying in the northern parts of the island, there is also a smaller procession starting at 7 AM from Cherng Talay Shrine, which takes place in the Thalang District near Cherng Talay. This is a good alternative if you're staying near Kamala, Surin, or Bang Tao Beaches, and don’t want to make the trip all the way to Phuket Town. The Cherng Talay procession offers a similar spectacle, but with a more local flavor and smaller crowds, making it a more accessible experience for families or those new to the festival.

In the evening, the focus shifts to the firewalking ceremonies that take place at several locations across the island. Firewalking is one of the most powerful and captivating rituals of the Vegetarian Festival, where participants, believed to be in a trance and protected by the gods, walk barefoot across glowing coals to demonstrate their faith and resilience.

On October 8th, firewalking will occur at several shrines, including:

• Sapam Shrine,
• Sapan Hin (featuring participants from Jui Tui Shrine),
• Baan Tha Ruea Shrine, and
• Sui Boon Tong Shrine (just west of the market and close to Jui Tui Shrine in Phuket Town).

The firewalking ceremonies typically begin around 8 PM, but it’s advisable to arrive early to secure a good spot. Watching firewalking is an intense experience, as the participants demonstrate great bravery and their belief in divine protection. It is accompanied by the loud, rhythmic beating of drums and an almost palpable sense of spirituality. I’ve managed to photograph the firewalking in the past and hope to capture more of these powerful moments again this year.

The Phuket Vegetarian Festival is a mesmerizing blend of culture, devotion, and community spirit. Each day offers a new experience, from early morning processions to late-night firewalking. If you’re planning to attend, each of these days provides a unique window into the heart of Phuket’s traditions, and whether you choose to explore the bustling streets of Phuket Town or the quieter shrines across the island, there is something for everyone to experience during this incredible festival.

Wednesday, October 9th - Jui Tui Shrine Procession and Afternoon Rituals

The street procession on October 9th begins from the Jui Tui Shrine, which is one of the largest and most prominent shrines in Phuket Town. Located just west of the main market, Jui Tui Shrine attracts massive crowds every year for its impressive displays of devotion. I’ve attended this procession a few times, and although it is extremely crowded, it provides an unparalleled opportunity to immerse yourself in the full intensity of the festival. Capturing photos of the Ma Song and their incredible feats of devotion is a challenging but rewarding experience.

If you plan to attend, it’s difficult to get into the shrine early in the morning due to the crowds. A better strategy is to find a good viewing spot along the procession route, either near the shrine or along the streets it passes through. The route is quite easy to locate—just follow the crowds and look for the small shrines that locals set up outside their homes, signifying that the procession will pass by soon. The area around Jui Tui Shrine and the market is always lively during the festival, with numerous food stalls lining the streets, offering a wide variety of Jae (เจ) food. It’s a great place to sample some local vegan dishes while waiting for the procession to pass.

Later in the day, several shrines across Phuket hold fascinating rituals, including bladed ladder climbing at Sam Kong and Bang Neow Shrines and nail bridge crossing at Sapam Shrine. I have to admit, I’m not exactly sure what "nail bridge crossing" involves, but it certainly sounds intriguing! I did once watch the bladed ladder climbing at Sam Kong Shrine, though I didn’t bring my camera as it was a rainy day. The weather can be unpredictable at this time of year—sometimes rainy, sometimes extremely hot. The bladed ladder climbing itself didn’t seem quite as dramatic as expected. Despite the name, I didn’t see anyone with bleeding feet, but it was still impressive to witness participants perform these feats without apparent harm.

Thursday, October 10th - Kathu Shrine Procession and Evening Firewalking

The street procession on October 10th starts from Kathu Shrine and heads all the way to Phuket Town. This is a long route—approximately 10 km—and it makes for an incredible spectacle as it winds through Old Town and ends at Sapan Hin. Kathu Shrine is significant to me personally, as it was my local shrine, just about a mile from our old home. Over the years, I’ve attended the early morning piercing rituals at Kathu Shrine multiple times. To see the rituals, it's best to arrive as early as possible—ideally around 5:30 AM. Arriving at 6:30 AM is already a bit late, as many of the piercing rituals are well underway by then. These early morning ceremonies are mysterious and spiritual, and the piercing, though intense and potentially unsettling, is a central part of the festival’s traditions. If you’re planning to take photographs, remember to be respectful of the participants and the sacred nature of the rituals.

In the evening of October 10th, there will also be firewalking ceremonies at several shrines, including Bang Neow Shrine, Cherng Talay Shrine, and Sam Kong Shrine. Firewalking is one of the festival’s most powerful rituals, showcasing the participants' faith as they walk barefoot across glowing coals. If you haven't seen it before, it's certainly worth attending, as it provides a dramatic conclusion to the day’s events.

Friday, October 11th - Sui Boon Tong Shrine Procession and Final Night Celebrations

October 11th marks the last full day of the Vegetarian Festival, with numerous events throughout the day and into the night. The morning kicks off with a street procession from Sui Boon Tong Shrine in Phuket Town. I attended this procession for the first time in 2016, and it was surprisingly large, with many Ma Song participants and a vibrant atmosphere throughout the streets. Later in the day, there will be firewalking at Kathu Shrine in the afternoon. I attended this event once and managed to take some photos, but the firewalking ceremony tends to draw very large crowds, making it difficult to get a clear view. If you’re planning to take photos, consider bringing a stepladder to get shots above the heads of the crowd or using a GoPro camera on a selfie stick—either option can help capture the action amidst the throngs of people.

The real highlight of October 11th is the final night procession in Phuket Town. This massive event involves people carrying statues of the gods through the streets and ending at Sapan Hin. The procession is characterized by millions of firecrackers, fireworks, and an overwhelming display of noise and energy. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen—absolutely wild, chaotic, and almost like a warzone. I’ve attended this event a few times, starting in 2014, and it’s an intense experience. The air becomes thick with smoke, firecrackers explode all around, and the noise is deafening. If you decide to attend, it's crucial to be prepared: wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, sturdy shoes (definitely not flip-flops!), and consider wearing a face mask to help filter the smoke. Earplugs are also highly recommended, as the noise level is extreme. A friend of mine once had a firecracker land in his pocket and melt his iPod—it’s that intense! For more on what to expect, you can read about my experiences at the [Final Night of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival].

Earlier in the evening on the last day, many shrines hold a special ritual known as the "Bridge Crossing for Purification". I had the opportunity to participate in this ritual in 2011, and it was one of the more uplifting and peaceful moments of the festival. Unlike the intense processions, this ceremony is a serene and joyous event, with participants dressed in white, crossing a symbolic bridge as part of a purification rite. The atmosphere is relaxed, with many smiles, and it felt like the entire village had gathered to take part.

Saturday, October 12th - Closing Ceremony

The final day of the festival is October 12th, and at around 5 PM, the lantern poles (Go Teng poles) are ceremonially lowered at the various shrines, marking the official end of the 2024 Phuket Vegetarian Festival. This moment signifies the departure of the Emperor Gods and brings the nine days of rituals, devotion, and celebration to a close. If you’re in Phuket at this time, try to witness the lowering of the poles—it’s a fitting end to the vibrant and spiritually charged festival. The dates again for your calendar are October 2nd - 12th, 2024. If you’re around, I highly recommend attending any of the events to experience the culture and spirituality of Phuket firsthand. I hope that one day I can be there again to witness it all once more.

General Festival Highlights

Throughout the festival, the various Chinese shrines across the island, particularly in Phuket Town, hold smaller ceremonies and rituals that are well worth attending. These include offerings, prayers, and acts of devotion, with each shrine having its unique customs. There are also firewalking ceremonies and other demonstrations of faith, such as climbing ladders made of knife blades, which take place at different shrines during the festival days.

The Phuket Vegetarian Festival is not just a visual feast but also a chance to immerse oneself in local traditions and spirituality. While many visitors come to see the dramatic street processions, the quieter moments at the shrines, the devotion of the participants, and the community spirit are equally compelling.

Make sure to check local listings for specific dates and times for each shrine's events, as the schedule can vary slightly each year. For those visiting Phuket during this time, it's a fantastic way to experience the deep cultural heritage of the island and witness a side of Phuket that goes beyond its well-known beaches and nightlife.

If you’ve been ‘purifying your body’ during the festival then it will be time for you to cross the bridge of purification set up at each shrine. The devotees will be ‘rewarded’ with a stamp on their shirt as proof of their commitment to the nine days. The crossing of the bridge of purification is held between 18.00-20.00.

Then, grab your earplugs and don’t wear anything flammable. After 21.00 all shrines join together in a mega street parade in Phuket Town. This is the Nine Emperor Gods Farewell.

Each shrine involved in the festival has its own Emperor God. The procession accompanies each group to Saphan Hin, from where the gods will depart Phuket.

This three-hour cacophony of noise, smoke and fireworks borders on dangerous so should be attended with an escape route in mind, safety goggles and patience. The crowds are massive and YOU are part of the parade – there are spectator stands.